European swords of curved-blade design present some interesting challenges for construction in the MMCG. Because of the groups’ mandate to attempt to match the weight and handling characteristics of the actual artifacts, close attention must be paid to the materials used to simulate weaponry.

Ser Owen’s guide to constructing fiberglass and steel-core swords represents the standard for MMCG simulators. This article will provide instructions on how to modify the standard construction method for straight-bladed swords so as to produce swords with a single curved edge.

Although the sword type constructed here is a falchion similar to the Thorpe falchion in Norwich, these instructions can also be used to create “malchus” type swords (also known as Messers).

Tools
Hacksaw
File
Scissors
Appropriate glues, etc… for attachment of grip
Dremmel rotary tool with cut off wheel (optional)

Step 1—Sword Type and Length

Albion's Vassal falchion after which the prototype is modeled

The fiberglass should be cut to the desired length of your sword minus several inches to allow for the pommel and thrusting tip. The thrusting tip on the curved sword account for considerably more length than it does on a straight-bladed sword.

On the prototype, the total length of the sword is 33½”. The two long fiberglass rods were cut to approximately 25½”. Be sure and keep track of the extra fiberglass, you'll need it later.

Cut a third, shorter piece of fiberglass. On the prototype, it was about 3”.

CUTTING TIP: wrap several layers of masking tape around the location of the cut prior to cutting to minimize splitting.

Now cut the steel rod to the same length as the long fiberglass rods. In this case, that measures at 25½”.

The parts of the core, cut to length.

Step 2—Making the Core

Arrange the lengths of fiberglass and steel so that the steel rod is at the back of the blade. Place the short length of fiberglass in between the two long pieces about ¾ of the way up the blade. Now tape all the pieces together with strapping tape, so that the outermost length of fiberglass bends in a curve outwards.

Rods ready for taping and gluing. This is how your parts should be arranged.

For extra stability, hot glue can be used as well. However, it is imperative that the entire length of the sword core be wrapped in strapping tape.

Steps 3, 4 and 5—Crosspiece, Pommel and Grip

These steps are done in the same way as with the standard straight-bladed swords. One possible variation includes balancing the blade—some curve-bladed swords have a balance point further up the blade than straight-bladed swords, and should be constructed accordingly.

Step 6—Padding

This where the construction of a falchion differs from that of the straight-bladed swords. The back of the sword (that is, the side on which the steel rod is placed) is padded with ¼” of auto-upholstery foam. This edge will not be used for striking.

For the front edge (the curved one), measure out as many widths of ¼” upholstery foam as necessary to achieve the blade shape. This includes the thrusting tip with the “bite” out of the back. Tape this on with strapping tape.

Layout of foam.

Having padded the blade, cut a single layer of ¼” upholstery foam in the shape of the blade profile (minus about ¼” all the way around). Tape these profiles onto the flats of the blade with strapping tape.

The padding for the flat of the blade

Step 7-Stabilizing the Tip

Without this step, the tip of the falchion will fold over and probably tear off after a few thrusts. Cut a strip of leather of width equal to the width of the “cut out” portion of the tip, and use strapping tape to tape it to the back.

Now cut a rectangle of leather and place it on the flat of the blade overlapping the point at which the core stops and the foam thrusting tip begins. Tape one rectangle of leather firmly to each side of the blade.

Leather reinforcement on the thrusting tip.

Step 8—Duct Tape

Now carefully wrap the entire blade in duct tape, taking care not to compress the foam underneath too much. When you are finished, the sword should look fairly close to the model by which it was inspired (as seen below). The prototype is within ounces of the original sword, and its profile is nearly exact.

Finised product in comparison with the model sword.

Step 9—Fight!

Now it's time to unleash the fury of the sword with which Saint Peter supposedly cut the ear from the soldier Malchus. Do have fun, now.